Anybody know anything about electrics - cos I dont, and I need to fit a security light in my back yard. Can any one help and earn a few bob.
Cheers
Craig
Cheers
Craig
Help with Security Light?
- Thread starter mantrabooks
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Re: New Help with Security Light
Thanks for that I will get on with the Job
Thanks for that I will get on with the Job
Re: New Help with Security Light
I did the same. I fixed the lamp to the outside wall, drilled through the wall and passed the wire through it. I then attached a 3 pin plug to the wire.
All I had to do then is plug it into a timer which I already had plugged into a socket in my back bed room.
Before I fixed the lamp to the wall, I connected a length of wire to the lamp that I knew would reach the inside socket.
Tip:
Make sure the wire runs below the lamp and runs up to the hole as shown in the diagram.
The reason for this is that if any rain water gets on the wire the water will run to the bottom of the wire and drip off rather than it entering the lamp or the wall.
MUMMIBOO said:
I did the same. I fixed the lamp to the outside wall, drilled through the wall and passed the wire through it. I then attached a 3 pin plug to the wire.
All I had to do then is plug it into a timer which I already had plugged into a socket in my back bed room.
Before I fixed the lamp to the wall, I connected a length of wire to the lamp that I knew would reach the inside socket.
Tip:
Make sure the wire runs below the lamp and runs up to the hole as shown in the diagram.
The reason for this is that if any rain water gets on the wire the water will run to the bottom of the wire and drip off rather than it entering the lamp or the wall.
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Re: New Help with Security Light
Thanks Len thats an excellent diagram and explanation. I have seen these lights with the cable running up the wall and thought that a good idea - especially to stop anybody cutting the cable. But on second thoughts and reflecting on your idea about the rain getting into the lamp I think its a good idea to have the cable running a little below the lamp.
Cheers all
Thanks Len thats an excellent diagram and explanation. I have seen these lights with the cable running up the wall and thought that a good idea - especially to stop anybody cutting the cable. But on second thoughts and reflecting on your idea about the rain getting into the lamp I think its a good idea to have the cable running a little below the lamp.
Cheers all
Re: New Help with Security Light
A really good lot of help that lot of information was!
I know everyone meant well but actually if the light is of any quality at all, it will have come with instructions stating:-
Please follow those instructions too many people end up with disasters just because they follow friendly advice rather than having it installed properly.
A really good lot of help that lot of information was!
I know everyone meant well but actually if the light is of any quality at all, it will have come with instructions stating:-
If in doubt get a qualified electrician to fit it!
Please follow those instructions too many people end up with disasters just because they follow friendly advice rather than having it installed properly.
Re: New Help with Security Light
Make sure you put a 3 amp fuse in the plug if your going to connect it to a socket using a normal 3 pin plug. Most have 13amp fuses fitted, which is stronger than the wire, the fuse is meant to be the weakest link, weaker than the the cable(flex), so that if anything goes wrong the fuse blows(melts), and not the cable (flex). Also don't try to use flat grey cable with a plug, thats the stiff stuff, get flexible stuff like on your vacumme cleaner, or kettle. 3 amp is up to 690 watt. 5 amp is 1150 watt. 13 amp is up to 2990watt
Make sure you put a 3 amp fuse in the plug if your going to connect it to a socket using a normal 3 pin plug. Most have 13amp fuses fitted, which is stronger than the wire, the fuse is meant to be the weakest link, weaker than the the cable(flex), so that if anything goes wrong the fuse blows(melts), and not the cable (flex). Also don't try to use flat grey cable with a plug, thats the stiff stuff, get flexible stuff like on your vacumme cleaner, or kettle. 3 amp is up to 690 watt. 5 amp is 1150 watt. 13 amp is up to 2990watt
Re: New Help with Security Light
urmm ok.... this just goes to show why I submitted the post in the first place.... because I used a 13amp fuse also I have use the grey stiff cable (which was given to me). So should i change the fuse to 3 amp....
thanks
urmm ok.... this just goes to show why I submitted the post in the first place.... because I used a 13amp fuse also I have use the grey stiff cable (which was given to me). So should i change the fuse to 3 amp....
thanks
Re: New Help with Security Light
At the very least change the fuse to a 3 amp. most security lights are 500w and 3 amp goes up to 690 watt. There's lots of things can go wrong with a security light, or it can get vandalised or sabotaged, if it shorts out with a 13 amp fuse, the wiring will melt and may catch fire before the fuse blows. The main reason for not using grey cable (which is also available in white) is that its not flexible. When a plugs pulled out, the cable bends and eventually will break, but still connect, which will cause arcing and could cause a fire. The cable bits up to you to decide, do you unplug it very often.
Not relevant to your situation but household grey cable for fixed wiring has also changed it colour coding, It used to be red-live Black-Nuetral Green/yellow -earth, It's changed to Brown-live blue-nuetral Green/yellow-earth. Grey Black and Brown are live on three phase 415volt supplies, they used to be red blue and yellow. Also worth pointing out is that that grey cable shouldnt be used as extensions to connect christmas lights outside, It can go brittle over time in freezing temperatures, you should use blue coloured arctic flex for christmas lights.
At the very least change the fuse to a 3 amp. most security lights are 500w and 3 amp goes up to 690 watt. There's lots of things can go wrong with a security light, or it can get vandalised or sabotaged, if it shorts out with a 13 amp fuse, the wiring will melt and may catch fire before the fuse blows. The main reason for not using grey cable (which is also available in white) is that its not flexible. When a plugs pulled out, the cable bends and eventually will break, but still connect, which will cause arcing and could cause a fire. The cable bits up to you to decide, do you unplug it very often.
Not relevant to your situation but household grey cable for fixed wiring has also changed it colour coding, It used to be red-live Black-Nuetral Green/yellow -earth, It's changed to Brown-live blue-nuetral Green/yellow-earth. Grey Black and Brown are live on three phase 415volt supplies, they used to be red blue and yellow. Also worth pointing out is that that grey cable shouldnt be used as extensions to connect christmas lights outside, It can go brittle over time in freezing temperatures, you should use blue coloured arctic flex for christmas lights.
Re: New Help with Security Light
Spot on Less.
Listen to Less's advice. If you don't know what you are doing leave it alone. Or the next thing you know we will be reading in the Observer about your house burning down with your kiddies in it.
I don't know which I think is more dangerous. Someone who admits to knowing nothing about electrical wiring or someone who thinks he does.
Less said:
Spot on Less.
Listen to Less's advice. If you don't know what you are doing leave it alone. Or the next thing you know we will be reading in the Observer about your house burning down with your kiddies in it.
I don't know which I think is more dangerous. Someone who admits to knowing nothing about electrical wiring or someone who thinks he does.
How can you make that comment when you don't know what size of cable he has used?Madhatter said:
Re: New Help with Security Light
Because the minimum uk size of grey'stiff'cable is 1mm , which is adequate for a 500 watt security flood, and the correct fuse for and grey fixed wiring cable with a 500 watt flood or less attached is 3 amp.
The stronger than the wire comment has nothing to do with what cable the above person has used, it's to do with the light fittings intenal connections between the terminal block, pir sensor, relay, and lamp connections. there is no way on earth a manufacturer is going to use 2.5mm unless the fitting is meant to run slave fittings. 500w works out at 2.17 amp
Because the minimum uk size of grey'stiff'cable is 1mm , which is adequate for a 500 watt security flood, and the correct fuse for and grey fixed wiring cable with a 500 watt flood or less attached is 3 amp.
The stronger than the wire comment has nothing to do with what cable the above person has used, it's to do with the light fittings intenal connections between the terminal block, pir sensor, relay, and lamp connections. there is no way on earth a manufacturer is going to use 2.5mm unless the fitting is meant to run slave fittings. 500w works out at 2.17 amp
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Re: New Help with Security Light
Makes me wonder how safe all those houses smothered in christmas lights really are. Most of those people have kids. how do they connect them all up. bearing in mind that all plugs and sockets should be protected to at least splashproof ip44 ratings.
Makes me wonder how safe all those houses smothered in christmas lights really are. Most of those people have kids. how do they connect them all up. bearing in mind that all plugs and sockets should be protected to at least splashproof ip44 ratings.
Re: New Help with Security Light
I suppose the trouble these days is that people do attempt Basic DIY such as Electrical wiring, car maintenance, Plumbing, building and construction and I suppose even cooking and I’ve no doubt all of the above, plus others could be potentially life threatening if not done by qualified people. Yet people do insist on doing things them selves.
So what do you do? Do you help if asked or just sit back and watch them set fire to their homes potentially killing everyone inside knowing that if only they had fitted a different fuse for instance, things would have turned out differently.
I suppose the trouble these days is that people do attempt Basic DIY such as Electrical wiring, car maintenance, Plumbing, building and construction and I suppose even cooking and I’ve no doubt all of the above, plus others could be potentially life threatening if not done by qualified people. Yet people do insist on doing things them selves.
So what do you do? Do you help if asked or just sit back and watch them set fire to their homes potentially killing everyone inside knowing that if only they had fitted a different fuse for instance, things would have turned out differently.
Re: New Help with Security Light
thanks for all the good advice I have now change the 13amp to a 3amp which makes me feel a whole lot better.
Cheers
thanks for all the good advice I have now change the 13amp to a 3amp which makes me feel a whole lot better.
Cheers
Re: New Help with Security Light
My Dad taught me all sorts of stuff. I was rebuilding car and bike engines when I was 10, I can do basic electrical, plumbing, etc without any problems. I'm happy to have a go at most things as at the end of the day it is down to common sense. I also make sure I know about what I am doing so such as teh correct fuse rating I know that power = volts * amps. hence knowing a light is 500W I can easily work out that it will draw just over 2A.
People have been doing basic electrical wiring/car maintainence etc for years. In fact I'd venture to say it is less prevalant now than say 20 years ago as in them days people couldn't afford to get the spark/plumber/mechanic out. Nowadays people have more disposible income, are less likely to have learned how to do stuff or in the case of cars you can't do anything as you need computer X to be able to find out whats wrong.Len said:
My Dad taught me all sorts of stuff. I was rebuilding car and bike engines when I was 10, I can do basic electrical, plumbing, etc without any problems. I'm happy to have a go at most things as at the end of the day it is down to common sense. I also make sure I know about what I am doing so such as teh correct fuse rating I know that power = volts * amps. hence knowing a light is 500W I can easily work out that it will draw just over 2A.
Re: New Help with Security Light
Security lighting should be hard wired through a fused spur (preferably switched), taken from your ring main. Up to the spur the cable should be 2.5 mm twin & earth cable. After the spur and feeding the light the cable should be 1.5mm twin & earth.
Twin and earth cable should not, must not, be wired into a 13 amp plug! A 13 amp plug is designed to be used with flexible cable.
For your own and your families safety I will repeat:-
Security lighting should be hard wired through a fused spur (preferably switched), taken from your ring main. Up to the spur the cable should be 2.5 mm twin & earth cable. After the spur and feeding the light the cable should be 1.5mm twin & earth.
Twin and earth cable should not, must not, be wired into a 13 amp plug! A 13 amp plug is designed to be used with flexible cable.
For your own and your families safety I will repeat:-
Get a qualified electrician to install the security light.
Re: New Help with Security Light
Iam a bit of a DIY man. Hehe
And I also advise no one to copy what I do.
I myself opted to use a 3pin plug for my project because 1… I couldn’t be bothered having to start moving furniture, lifting carpets and floor boards to gain access to the ring main. 2 … my security lighting isn’t going to be constantly fully on for 12 or 13 hours, in that case it would defiantly, I think need hard wiring, it’s only intended to be on for a minute or two at a time and I think, in that amount of time drawing 2 or 3 amps while the lamp is on full wack the wiring and plug to the lamp shouldn’t get to hot if at all and hopefully the fuse will protect from short circuits due to moisture, water, semi conductor failure (triacs, thyristors not sure which?) etc. I was also aware that 3pin plugs can get very hot while drawing current, due to such things as, having loose connections between the male and the female brass connectors this causes arcing between both brass connectors (potential fire) plus heat can also be generated between the two brass connectors by their very own impedance (resistance) not as dangerous as arcing but left over long periods could also equal Fire.
The wire I acquired for my project, well to be honest I didn’t have a clue which to buy as I am not an electrician, I don’t know the names or the gauges of all the different wires. I knew it wasn’t bell wire or telephone wire. Hehe So I went down to my local electrical shop told them what I was doing and they kindly sorted me out with a couple of meters of, hopefully the correct wire for the job and at a cost of about 60p or so.
I know what I have done is risky but I would love to know if it's ok.
I have no doubt that there are many other things that could go wrong while wiring up your own lamps. Maybe it would be a good idea if we could point out what some of the dangers are.
I wonder if any professional electricians do actually stick a plug on the end of a wire similar as to what I have done above.
If one has done that for you then let us know.
Thanks Less that is a very good description complete with specifications as to how security lighting should be fitted. Hopefully anyone considering fitting their own security lighting may see your post and now think twice about doing it for them selves as it is not really for the DIYer.Less said:
Iam a bit of a DIY man. Hehe
And I also advise no one to copy what I do.
I myself opted to use a 3pin plug for my project because 1… I couldn’t be bothered having to start moving furniture, lifting carpets and floor boards to gain access to the ring main. 2 … my security lighting isn’t going to be constantly fully on for 12 or 13 hours, in that case it would defiantly, I think need hard wiring, it’s only intended to be on for a minute or two at a time and I think, in that amount of time drawing 2 or 3 amps while the lamp is on full wack the wiring and plug to the lamp shouldn’t get to hot if at all and hopefully the fuse will protect from short circuits due to moisture, water, semi conductor failure (triacs, thyristors not sure which?) etc. I was also aware that 3pin plugs can get very hot while drawing current, due to such things as, having loose connections between the male and the female brass connectors this causes arcing between both brass connectors (potential fire) plus heat can also be generated between the two brass connectors by their very own impedance (resistance) not as dangerous as arcing but left over long periods could also equal Fire.
The wire I acquired for my project, well to be honest I didn’t have a clue which to buy as I am not an electrician, I don’t know the names or the gauges of all the different wires. I knew it wasn’t bell wire or telephone wire. Hehe So I went down to my local electrical shop told them what I was doing and they kindly sorted me out with a couple of meters of, hopefully the correct wire for the job and at a cost of about 60p or so.
I know what I have done is risky but I would love to know if it's ok.
I have no doubt that there are many other things that could go wrong while wiring up your own lamps. Maybe it would be a good idea if we could point out what some of the dangers are.
I wonder if any professional electricians do actually stick a plug on the end of a wire similar as to what I have done above.
If one has done that for you then let us know.
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